Such is the handiwork of people like Adam Fleischman, an owner of BottleRock in Culver City who says he's out to create "the next evolution of the wine experience in L.A."

Translated, that means nightly wine tastings that draw from the shop's 500 boutique labels and attract local loft dwellers; a tapas menu and free WiFi helps push the bottles out the door.

Sounds familiar? Fleischman describes BottleRock as "a Starbucks for wine lovers." He and his partners are already looking to franchise the operation, which opened July 21.

Stores that want a license for wine tasting must jump through many of the same hoops as would-be bar owners. However, liquor license consultant Art Rodriguez says store owners have an easier time than barkeeps: " 'Wine tasting store' sounds better than 'bar.' "

For inventory, the supersize operations remain beyond reproach. Wally's Wine & Spirits Emporium carries 10,000 labels, while Wine House handles somewhere between 5,000 and 8,000.

However, just as that scale can overwhelm rookie oenophiles, it can be an awkward fit for small-production wineries that don't have the clout or marketing budgets to make themselves known.

Scott "Moe" Levy, owner of Moe's Fine Wines, says if he wants something badly enough, he'll go to the source. For one California Bordeaux blend sold only at the winery, he called the owners once a week until they relented. "I only got a case, but I'm the only one in the country to have it," he says.

In-store wine tastings help break down resistance to little-known bottles. And with the tastings come the sipsters. "This is just about perfect," says Silver Lake Wines partner Randy Clement, shouting over the din of a recent Thursday Night Flight tasting. "Some nights, it gets really crowded."

We asked store owners for some favorite wines they've offered for tasting. Prices are per bottle; tasting prices vary.

BottleRock
3847 Main St., Culver City
310-836-WINE
Tastings Daily 11 am-11 pm; Fri.-Sat. 11 am-midnight
Marcel Deiss 2002 Engelgarten ($40)
A white field blend from a biodynamic grower in Alsace.

Silver Lake Wine
2395 Glendale Blvd.
Silverlake
323-662-9024
silverlakewine.com
Tastings Sun. 3 pm-5 pm; Mon. 5 pm-9 pm; Thurs. 5 pm-9 pm
Curran 2002 Sangiovese, Santa Ynez Valley ($30)
By the winemaker who also produces Santa Rita Hills' Sea Smoke Cellars.

Colorado Wine Co.
2114 Colorado Blvd.
Eagle Rock
323-478-1985
cowineco.com
Tastings Tues.-Fri. 11 am-9 pm; Sat. 11 am-5 pm
Owen Roe 2005 Abbot's Table ($25)
A red "kitchen sink" variety, from Oregon's Willamette Valley.

Moe's Fine Wines
11740 San Vicente Blvd.
Brentwood
310-826-4444
moesfinewines.com
Tastings Sat. 2 pm-5 pm
Paul Hobbs Winery 2003 Cabernet Sauvignon, Napa Valley ($75)
Says Levy: "Spectacular."