Simply Irresistible

(Romantic fantasy)

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Gellar plays Amanda Shelton, the none-too-successful owner-chef of a small Manhattan restaurant that has been in her family for 70 years. Unfortunately, Amanda isn't a very good cook, and her clientele has been diminishing. Indeed, her eatery is on the verge of closing when Amanda serendipitously encounters Gary O'Reilly (playwright Christopher Durang), a vaguely defined, fairy-godfatherish fellow.

Thanks to O'Reilly's magical intervention, Amanda gains the ability to prepare wonderfully delicious meals that attract many new patrons to her restaurant. More important, as in "Like Water for Chocolate," she is able to spice her food with her most heartfelt -- and highly contagious -- emotions. Shortly after she casts an approving eye on Tom Bartlett (Sean Patrick Flanery), a hunky department store executive, the latter savors Amanda's Crab Napoleon, and develops an instant craving for the chef.

Even when magic is involved, however, a romantic comedy has to place a few obstacles in the path of true love. Tom, a commitment-shy workaholic, is reluctant to remain under Amanda's spell, especially when he discovers that he has, quite literally, been bewitched. But he comes to rely on her expertise while overseeing the grand opening of a tony restaurant in the upscale store Henri Bendel.

Fresh from his attention-grabbing turn as a sad-eyed pedophile in Todd Solondz's "Happiness," Dylan Baker co-stars as Jonathan Bendel, Tom's stuffy boss. When a snooty chef resigns just before the restaurant opening, Bendel is the one who's most insistent that Amanda assume control of the kitchen. But, then again, Bendel's judgment is more than a little clouded: After sampling one of Amanda's scrumptious desserts, he's swept into a passionate romance with Lois (Patricia Clarkson of "High Art"), Tom's wisecracking secretary.

Working from a strenuously whimsical script by Judith Roberts, first-time feature director (and vet producer) Mark Tarlov misses the mark while aiming for the light, bright tone of classic Hollywood romantic comedies. The pace is brisk -- perhaps a tad too brisk -- and the production values are suitably spiffy. But there is a heavy air of literal-mindedness throughout the pic, even during a fantasy ballroom-dance sequence. It's not enough for Tarlov to hint that spirits are soaring and love is on the wing. Just to make sure no one misses the point, he has Amanda and Tom levitate when they share a heated embrace.

Despite game efforts, leads Gellar and Flanery fail to generate anything more potent than low-wattage star power. As a result, their thinly written characters fail to dazzle in sufficiently delightful fashion, and their romance is about as compelling as a plot contrivance on a routine sitcom.

It helps little that both actors are repeatedly upstaged by supporting players. (Larry Gilliard Jr. is a standout as Amanda's assistant.) Beyond that, they must vie for attention with all the food, glorious food, that is prepared, served and consumed with such sensuous gusto.

Camera (color), Robert Stevens; editor, Paul Karasick; music, Gil Goldstein; production designers, John Kafarda, William Barclay; art directors, Beth Khun, Caty Maxey; costume designer, Katherine Jane Bryant; sound (Dolby stereo), Billy Sarokin; assistant directors, J. Miller Tobin, Tom Reilly; casting, Hopkins Smith Barden. Reviewed at GCC Meyerland Cinema, Houston, Feb. 3, 1999. MPAA Rating: PG-13. Running time: 95 MIN.