When their hosts fail to turn up at the airport, the Alexandria Ceremonial Police Band take a bus to the town they're supposed to be playing. Not only isn't it much of a place, it's also not their place, but the last bus has gone and they don't know where they're supposed to go. To quell grumblings already afoot among members, conductor Tawfiq (Sasson Gabai) hesitantly accepts a suggestion from cafe manager Dina (Ronit Elkabetz) to stay the night.

Tawfiq and handsome ladies' man Khaled (Saleh Bakri) bunk together at Dina's. She's not the kind of woman Tawfiq is used to: wry, with an outward, playful self-confidence and undisguised sexuality. The awkward, melancholy band leader reluctantly accepts Dina's invitation to dinner, where her needy flirtation and his gentlemanly sadness form a bridge of understanding.

Meanwhile, Khaled tags on to the socially awkward Papi (Shlomi Avraham) for a night at a roller disco, culminating in a hilarious lesson on how to treat women. Other band members, headed by second-in-command Simon (Khalifa Natour), stay with Itzik (Rubi Moscovich), leading to tensions with his family and revelations about fulfillment. Balanced by a very funny rendition around the dinner table of "Summertime," these scenes have something profound to say, but never feel heavy-handed.

By pic's end it's not just that the Israelis and Egyptians have learned something about each other, they've learned something about themselves. Mastering these lessons without becoming artificially rosy-eyed would defeat a lesser talent, but both in script and direction Kolirin proves he's more than up to the task. His picaresque humor and witty style are a joy to behold, as is his respect for all quirks of character.

Thesping is terrific, with everyone in perfect tune. Acting powerhouse Elkabetz displays a wonderful comic charm, sardonic yet warm and ultimately vulnerable -- her head keeps moving slightly in a swagger that's more protective armor than artifice. She and Gabai play perfectly together, his shy eyes almost afraid of her challenging, affectionate gaze. Newcomer Bakri, too, has a great flare for timing and exudes buckets of uncomplicated charm.

Visuals are a particular pleasure: Kolirin has a witty sense of composition, unexpectedly passing people in and out of the frame to maximum, but not overdone, humorous effect. The band's light blue uniforms, contrasted against the desert, are ideal visual reminders that they're out of place, and yet as pic makes clear, there's every reason in the world for them to be there. Music, that ideal bringer-together of cultures, beautifully contributes to the theme.

Camera (color), Shai Goldman; editor, Arik Lahav Leibovitz; music, Habib Shehadeh Hanna; production designer, Eitan Levi; costume designer, Doron Ashkenazi; sound (Dolby Digital), Itai Eloav; sound design, Gil Toren; line producer, Tami Kushnir; casting, Orit Azoulay. Reviewed at Cannes Film Festival (Un Certain Regard), May 19, 2007. Running time: 86 MIN.